Beef Wellington

Pretty much everyone has heard of Beef Wellington. It is thrown about as a hoity-toity dish served at fancy-schmancy restaurants, and for the most part, that's correct.

While no one knows the exact history of the dish, it is generally agreed that it is a French dish, filet de beouf en crout, probably renamed for the Duke of Wellington, post Battle of Waterloo. It is a sumptuous combination of beef tenderloin, foie gras, duxelles and puff pastry.

Let's work one step at a time.

This is actually a lengthy entree to make, involving a number of different components, as listed above. Because of the controversial nature of foie gras and the prohibitive cost, I went with a more cost effective and, in my opinion, flavorful option. Country Pate. This can be made ahead. If wrapped tightly, it freezes well. It will keep several days in the fridge.

 Country Pate (recipe adapted from Bon Appetite's Pate de Campagne)

Ingredients

• 3/4 cup Sherry, Marsala or white wine
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 cup minced onion
• 2 1/2 pounds ground pork
• 12 ounces bacon (8 to 10 slices
• 3 garlic cloves, pressed
• 2 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 2 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme (or two sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves only, chopped)
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/3 cup whipping cream

Preparation

• Set rack at lowest position in oven and preheat to 350°F. Boil wine until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 1 1/2 minutes. Cool.
• Melt butter in heavy medium skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and translucent but not brown, about 8 minutes.
• Combine ground pork and chopped bacon in large bowl. Using fork or fingertips, mix together until well blended. Add sautéed onion, garlic, 2 1/2 teaspoons salt, thyme, and pepper to bowl with pork mixture and stir until incorporated. Add eggs, cream, and reduced wine. Stir until well blended.
• Grease 9x5x3-inch metal loaf pan. Using hands, lightly and evenly press meat mixture into pan.
• Cover pan tightly with foil. Place pan in 13x9x2-inch metal baking pan and transfer to oven. Pour boiling water into baking pan to come halfway up sides of loaf pan. Bake pâté until a thermometer inserted through foil into center registers 155°F.
• Remove loaf pan from baking pan and transfer to rimmed baking sheet. Place heavy skillet or 2 to 3 heavy cans atop pâté to weigh down. Chill overnight. Can be made 4 days ahead.
• Place loaf pan with pâté in larger pan of hot water for about 3 minutes. Invert pâté onto platter. Cut into rectangles about the size of your beef portions, at a thickness of 1/4".

The next step is the duxelles. This is a fancy name for gussied up mushrooms.

Duxelles (adapted from Mushroom Duxelles: Intense and Refined)

Ingredients:

• 2 lb.mushrooms
• 8 Tbsp. unsalted butter; divided
• 1 cup finely chopped onion
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 tsp. dried thyme or 1 1/2 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
• 1/4 cup dry vermouth, sherry, or white wine

Preparation:

1. Finely chop mushrooms in a food processor.
2. Scrape mushrooms out into a clean, cotton towel. (Note: Do not use terry cloth. I use a dark colored towel and rinse immediately after to avoid staining.)
3. Twist towel around mushrooms and wring out as much liquid as you can over the sink.
4. Chop onions in food processor as well.
5. Heat a large (10-inch) non-stick skillet over a burner set between medium and medium-high.
6. Add half the butter and swirl to melt and avoid burning.
7. Add mushrooms, onion, a pinch of salt, a pinch of black pepper, and thyme.
8. Cook, stirring frequently, until mushrooms appear dry and are beginning to brown.
9. Stir in remaining tablespoon of butter, and, when melted, the sherry or wine.
10. Cook, stirring frequently, until the wine has evaporated.
11. Remove from heat and cool. Use what you need for the wellington. Any remainder can be frozen for future use.

One thing I've found frustrating is sog. Working with juicy meat and puff pastry can be difficult. One way to avoid this is to add a layer of cooked puff pastry on the bottom of the wellington to absorb liquid.

Cut the pastry into squares and place on greased baking sheet.

Bake at 375 until browned.

On to the beef!

The tenderloin is one of the most coveted cuts of beef. It is tender, as the name suggests, and has a lovely flavor.

Image courtesy of Paula Deen (she's the best, ya'll.)

However, it can be pricey. Working for a small restaurant is like feeding a family. There is a strict budget and I will explore any way to keep costs low without sacrificing quality. That's why, when it came time for Beef Wellington this year, instead of using tenderloin at nearly $10 per pound, I turned to a little known muscle that will soon be hitting the spotlight: Teres Major. It is located in the "chuck" section of the chart above. That's right, the "chuck" section. Also known as a "petite tender", this cut is about a third the cost of tenderloin.

For my purposes, I made individual wellingtons. This meant fabricating 4-5oz portions of beef. Because it is so lean, nearly 100% of this muscle is usable. What doesn't turn into lovely portions of beef can be used for fast cooking dishes, seared and added to soup, anything you might need tender beef for.

 Salt and pepper the beef and sear each piece until it is browned on each side. It will only take two to three minutes. Be careful not to over cook the meat in the pan. Beef Wellington is supposed to served rare, so cooking is a little bit tricky.

Allow the beef to cool completely. In the meantime, collect all of the pieces to assemble your Beef Wellington puzzle.

From left to right, across the back: Pate, mustard (dijon or whole grain is preferable), duxelles, puff pastry squares, seared beef portions, egg wash. Front row: Puff pastry sheet, knife, greased baking sheets.

Let's start putting the pieces together. The easiest way I've found is to build this upside down. So, start with a piece of the puff pastry.

This 10" by 15" sheet is cut into 6 equal squares.

Working with one square at a time, stretch it slightly and place one piece of pate onto it.

Add a layer of mustard

Next comes a spoonful of duxelles

Next comes the beef

Add a piece of the baked puff pastry

Bring in the corners of pastry and make a little packet, sealing the bottom

Turn it right-side up and brush with egg wash

I used small letter cutters to monogram the wellingtons. This step is option, of course, but adds a nice touch. Use a small knife and prick at each corner. This will allow the steam to vent and help make sure your puff pastry is crispy. At this point, if you are baking immediately, put into a 400 degree oven for about 20 minutes. You'll want to use a thermometer to check how done these are. Stick it through the side to avoid destroying the top. When the thermometer reads 125, pull them from the oven. These can also be covered and refrigerated for several hours.

If they are not as golden as you would like, I've found a couple of minutes under the broiler makes the difference. But, keep a close eye out so they don't burn. 

From the trial run of the menu, I served the beef wellington with garlic mashed potatoes and green beans amandine

If you try this recipe, give me a shout out. I'd love to know how it worked for you.

Coming back

Talk about insanity! The last two months have been a whirlwind of kitchen work, familial obligations and flat out exhaustion. Between shows in our dinner theater that pushed the limits of my skills, hospital visits for my grandmother, and moving my mother to a new home, there has been little time to devote to my blog.

However, things are starting to slow down, even though the holiday season is approaching. We are looking forward to holiday parties, our Christmas production and hopefully snow days!

We made it through the election, some vicious storms throughout the country and now it's time to get back on track.

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday of all time. I'm looking forward to jumping back in to my blog and reestablishing the trust of my readers.

Coming soon:  An elegant entree-- Beef Wellington.

What to do when you're uninspired

Lately, I have been singularly uninspired to write....anything. I haven't done much in the realm of fun cooking. It's same ol', same ol' for me. However, with another show coming up in October, there is the possibility of some interesting posts.

On another note, someone has been discussing the idea of amuse bouche with me. I love the idea; small, bite-sized items that are varied, cutting edge or classic, hot or cold, savory or sweet. There are endless possibilities.

By the way, I'm totally in need of a camera to take photos to post. I'm going on the hunt....

Urgent: Share the love

A good friend of mine is working on his Ph.d dissertation. Unfortunately, he has run out of funds. But, all hope is not lost! He has a campaign on Kickstarter.com. You can help him add to our limited knowledge of Tibetan culture.

Nechung: The God of a Tibetan Monastery


Let's all help Chris kick a** on his dissertation! Time is running out!

Tibetan Food is not Gourmet

Before I moved to Lhasa back in 2006, I don't even recall how many people told me time and time again that the food there stinks, that I would be hungry all the time because the food was terrible and Tibetan food was pretty much the worst of the if, next to the Chinese, Muslim and even the meager Western offerings.

I respectfully beg to differ with all of those people. Tibetan food is designed to be the foundation of life, as all food originally and at it's base, truly is. Over time, here in the "civilized" Western world, food has become luxury, trendy. According to the International Food Distributors Association, restaurants and associated businesses were a $600 billion industry in 2011. I can only imagine it has grown. In Tibet, while there are no calculated numbers, as such, I can guarantee it is less than that....much less.

Food in Tibet is not about sophistication, unless you take sophistication and simplicity hand in hand. When you live at an altitude of 12000 ft or greater, with minimal resources at your disposal, minimal processed items, and limited cooking methods, you learn to add variety where you can, and love the staples you have in abundance. It is amazing how much pleasure can be derived from simple things.

Living in Lhasa, I don't recall ever having a particularly bad meal. There were places that were better than others, sure, but overall, I thoroughly enjoyed the food. Variety is the spice of life, they say and variety, there certainly was. Any given day, I chose between a traditional Tibetan restaurant, Indian, Nepali, Chinese, Korean, Muslim, or Western. There were regional Tibetan restaurants, many, many types of momos (dumplings), thukpas (noodle soups), a wide variety of foods on sticks, in little baggies. There was an endless array of delicious things to be found, if one was willing to step outside the Western fast food box.

The difference, though, is that Tibetan food has not changed itself so much from it's purely survival based foundation, that it must be deconstructed, reconstructed, or have its own philosophy. It simply is.

Today is not about food

Ok, ok, ok. I know I promised I was going to do better about blogging, then promptly didn't post....

It's been a killer few weeks and I've been getting rested up. Today, I took a day off. I'm out of town, seeing some fantastic Tibetan monks. But, you know, it has reminded me of all the things I used to want to do, all the dreams I used to have, that are no longer on my radar.

Many years ago, before I finished high school, all I wanted to do was going to culinary school and be a pastry chef. My goals changed when I started learning about Tibet. It occupied my every waking moment. I planned to be an activist, to single-handedly free Tibet. I entered college with that clear goal in mind, finished my Bachelor's degree in two and a half years so I could join an MA program in Tibetan Studies that had an open spot. At some point after that, I changed. I think, at first, I had burnt myself out working so hard at school. After a summer in China, my perspective changed. Did I still think China was wrong for taking what wasn't theirs? Absolutely. But, I no longer thought of Chinese people as the proverbial "devil". The people charmed me, and I began to realize that hardcore activism would not solve the problem.

So, off I went to grad school, barely 20 years old, and starting to lose confidence in my own convictions. While I wholly agree that Tibet should be independent, I no longer had the emotional drive that started me on the path. How does one transform that now empty spot into something productive? That, I never learned. Instead, I finished grad school, kind of floundering at the end, barely hanging on, and made my way to the Roof of the World.

I spent almost two years living there, in Tibet, the land of my dreams. It was amazing, incredible, taught me more about myself than any other experience I ever had, made me become more social, more confident, more assertive. But, conversely, my focus changed. I decided to get back into cooking, after spending so long experimenting with food there, finagling successful renditions of home-cooking out of strange ingredients and irregular appliances.

Eventually, I returned to the States, full of a new vigor, eager to get into cooking in a way I never had before. And I did. One year in an intensive culinary school, and I was out in the world, cooking for a living. And, while I find profound pleasure in cooking for others, there are times I feel regretful about not completing those idealistic goals of my younger years, for giving up on my own potential in that arena, for allowing my own feelings of inadequacy to inform my actions in life. Perhaps that is a little dramatic, but the fact remains that at some point, I lost both my confidence and my focus. I do love my career in food but I wonder what would be different if I had kept that extreme passion and drive that started me on the path in the beginning. I don't even know what my true dreams are now. I don't have an objective out there, pushing me, coaxing me to evolve, to change, to grow. There's no carrot on the end of the stick anymore. And I don't know where to find one.

In a way, I'm sad I came out here today. The physical distance from one part of my life is nice, but I've exchanged it for emotional closeness to that other part, that dusty part covered in cobwebs, that I put away long ago, hoping it would disappear.

Now, the question becomes, what do I make of myself?

Anticipation

This week is going to be exciting. Every couple of years, a group of Tibetan monks comes to town and builds a sand mandala, hosts workshops and helps to education people about Tibet and Tibetan Buddhism. Well, they are here! I am looking forward to their visit and their cultural showcase on Friday night. I have my chuba (Tibetan dress) going in to the dry cleaner to get all pressed and ready, and I'm digging out my recipe for Kapsey, traditional butter cookies, and preparing some butter tea.

Stay tuned for more updates about this small adventure.

Another Closing Night

Tonight was the final dinner performance of our summer show at work. It's been a long run, 8 shows total, several hundred people through the restaurant, experiencing a different side to our city. I've been around since the inception of our evening business. For a location that is primarily a State and city business  center, it has been a struggle to bring people in at other times. Too often people would rather go to the other side of town, populated by chain restaurant, impersonal mega stores and traffic that would choke even the widest street.

I want to say how great it is to work with awesome people and have the opportunity to make delicious food. Despite the fact I love delicious food, love making it for others, there is a trade-off. I no longer enjoy cooking for myself, except on the odd occasion. In fact, by the end of a show, I no longer really even enjoy making the food for the customers. The only positive thing I experience is that dinner service runs so smoothly that it might as well be slicked with butter. But, I do not miss the 17-hour days, the early Saturday starts or the late nights.

I'm glad it's over....until the next time.

Keeping Up With the World

I want to apologize for skipping my blog for so long. Life has been crazy. You know, there's a local guy who has been hassling my boss via comments on new articles. He complains that our restaurant isn't open nearly long enough each day for people to actually enjoy.

Shoot, I wish he could spend just one week in my shoes--- this week in fact. Not only has it been crazy with late food trucks, missing orders, and shuffling staff, but add on private parties, four performances of a show, two with a three course dinner, and a night of karaoke, all topped off with regular daytime business. Early morning trips to 24-hour supermarkets, late nights cooking and cleaning, and routine health inspections are all in a days work. If I spend fewer than ten hours on the clock, I celebrate.

But, it is all worth it. When I think about what I do, the people I work with and the way I can contribute to change in my community, I find it in myself to get up in the morning and go right back to work.

I also hope to find it in myself to get right back to blogging here every day. 

Man vs. Meat Part Three

We've now covered cuts of meat and methods for cooking, and marinades and rubs. If you are ready to put it all together, let's get into some tricks of the trade.

If you are like me, you probably want to get the most bang for your buck at the store. When you shop inexpensive cuts of meat, keep in mind they tend to be tough, but now that you know you can use a marinade or a meat mallet to tenderize it, that won't be a deterrent. There's no reason you can't eat well from a cut of meat that is tough at the store.

So, what are you likely to pick up? Let's say you get a chuck roast or an arm roast. These are basically grandma's pot roast. Cooking these requires patience. If you have a crock pot, that is an ideal vessel for making a delicious, one pot meal with your roast.

To start, you want to sear your meat. That means, get a saute pan pretty darn hot on the stove, sprinkle your roast with salt and pepper, then put it in the pan until it is browned on all sides. This shouldn't take too long, but will work better with a stainless steel pan, although non-stick will work. If you are using stainless steel, you will notice that the meat will kind of stick to the pan when you first put it in. That's fine. Leave it there until it releases itself. At that point, you should have a lovely brown crust on that surface of the meat. What this does is change the taste, texture and flavor of the meat. Any bits of brown goodness that are in the pan, make sure you rescue those from obscurity by adding a little water, stock, or wine to the pan and scraping them up. They are the super goodness.

Now, this is something to remember for roasting as well as cooking your pot roast. In order to make sure heat can circulate, you want to either put a rack under your meat, or, the better option in my mind, chopped vegetables. Cut onions, carrots and celery into pieces anywhere from half an inch to an inch, depending on what size piece of meat you have, and then put them in the bottom of your crock pot or baking dish. Remember, veggies add flavor. Next, add whatever flavorings you'd like. I'm partial to a little water or red wine, and a packet of onion soup mix. Don't be afraid of experimenting with spices, herbs or sauces. Put the lid on and cook. In my experience, as long as you don't let it go, like I did one time, for 18 hours, you are probably going to be ok on time. But, again, experiment with your equipment.

What if you grabbed a steak? Grills are always preferable, but remember, you can use your broiler or a saute pan. There's no reason to deny yourself of a delicious steak because you don't have a grill. I love to use a generous amount of kosher salt, a sprinkle of pepper and sometimes, a salt-free steak seasoning. And, because I adore rare steaks, I toss my steak in a searing hot pan just long enough to make that lovely brown crust on the outside. You might want to cook it longer. Keep an eye out for "eye of round" steaks or other such things. They may look like steak, but are really a tougher cut of meat that is better served by braising.

Ok, there's a few things to get us started. I'll be adding cuts of meat and techniques as time goes on.

Man vs. Meat Part Two

Sorry I've been away from the keyboard, folks. It's been a long week. As I've said before, I work at a small restaurant, but small doesn't mean not busy. We have a dinner theater and this week we are opening our fourth show of the season! That means tweaking the recipes, spiffing the restaurant, rehearsals every night, selling tickets and generally up to the eyeballs in work, but it is so exciting that I wouldn't change it for anything.

However, I do want to continue answering G's question about cooking meat. Did you do the quiz? Did you play match-up with the meats and cooking methods?

If you did, here are a few of the combinations:

Steaks -- Broil, Grill, or Saute

Roasts -- Braise, Roast or Stew

Ribs -- Braise, Grill or Roast

Stew Beef -- Braise or Stew

Pork Chop -- Broil, Grill, or Saute

Pork Loin -- Grill or Roast


Soooo, now that we know what things go together, what else is important to keeping meat from turning to leather? There are a few things on that list. Let's start with marinades and rubs.

A marinade is a combination of oil, an acid (usually vinegar, but could be citrus) and a variety of herbs, spices, etc. The ratio is generally two parts oil for one part of vinegar, so if you use a half a cup of oil, you would need...... that's right, a quarter cup of vinegar. What is the purpose of vinegar? Well, the acid starts to break down the muscle fibers, making them tender. With meats like beef and pork, they tend to be more hearty and can withstand greater marinating times. For example, if you are marinating a steak, you could probably manage an hour or two with no problems, where chicken can only take half an hour or forty-five minutes. If you marinate something for too long, your meat will basically turn to mush. But, that doesn't mean you need to be afraid of marinating. Practice, practice, practice!

Here's a great marinade I'm currently using with pork loin. The unused marinade (meaning the part that does not touch the raw meat) doubles as a sauce after cooking.

1/4 cup red wine or rice wine vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 - 1 tsp minced fresh garlic
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh oregano
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh sweet basil
pinch of sugar
kosher salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients and allow to sit at room temperature for an hour or so, then marinate your meat, reserving a cup or so for saucing your finished product. Feel free to jazz any recipe up. I love spicy, so if I were making this for myself, I might finely dice a jalapeno or two to add to the mix, throw in a little cayenne or some crushed red pepper flakes. Experiment. You can make any recipe reflect you.

Rubs are a combination of spices that are literally rubbed onto the meat. This is done often with ribs, but you can rub steaks or roasts, too. A good ingredient to keep on hand for rubs, although it can be added to marinades, too, is meat tenderizer. It's a powder that is actually an enzyme found primarily in pineapple. Cool, huh? Rubs can be simple: salt, pepper, paprika, garlic powder. Or they can be more complicated. They sky is the limit. One of my favorites, and super simple is this recipe for herb roasted pork. The change I make for the rub is letting it actually sit overnight on the pork.

Oh, you know what? I forgot probably the simplest way to make your meat less like leather....


Ladies and gentlemen, it's a meat mallet. Go ahead and take out your daily frustrations by getting in a few rounds of whack-a-steak. I promise you'll feel better and your steak will be tender. Two birds, so to speak.

Ok, so now, we've covered the cuts of meat you are most likely to buy, and discussed, briefly the methods used to cook them. You've got your steak or your pork loin marinating in the fridge-- (you did put that back in the fridge, right?) What's next?

Next up, we will actually get your meat cooking. Stay tuned for how to use your grill or your oven, when Man vs. Meat returns.

Man vs. Meat Part One

Ok, folks, I've got a doozie of a question!

G asks: "How are you supposed to cook meat...in general...everything I make is roughly the consistency of shoe leather."

You are not alone. I used to have that problem before I entered the magical world of culinary school. Meat is good stuff. According to the 2010 US Census, the United States consumed 34,156,000 metric tons of meat (including beef, veal, pork, and poultry). Given the US population of 308,745,538 in 2010, also according to Census, this means, on average, we each consume approximately 242 lbs of meat each year, or about 2/3 of a lb per day. Clearly, we love our meat.

Image from corncommentary.com

But, wouldn't we love it more if we all knew how to make it tasty at the end of the cooking process? Absolutely! So, let's get down to basics.

The first thing I'm going to cover is some terminology.

There are many, many ways to cook meat. Here are a few of the more common ones and their definitions.


Braise- simmering with a small amount of liquid, usually in a closed container, for a period of time

Broil- cooking with a direct heat, generally in the oven, but could also be a grill or a salamander

Grill- cooking with direct heat, as above, on a grill

Roast- cooking with dry heat, essentially baking

Saute- frying in a pan with a small amount of liquid or oil

Stew- cooking at a simmer or low boil for a length of time

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In addition to quite a few methods for cooking meat, let's not forget the different cuts of meat that are out there. Some of the most common cuts are:

Steaks- a thick slice of beef, generally high quality. Steaks tend to come from the top half of the animal, from the ribs on back. Steaks tend to be cut from muscles the cow doesn't use too much, hence their higher fat content and thus their tenderness.

Roasts- large hunks of beef, roasts can be either tough cuts that require a long time in cooking (think Grandma's Pot Roast), or a more tender cut that can be cooked until rare (i.e. Prime Rib)

Ribs- Just what you think....ribs. These come in a few varieties, including Short Ribs, Baby Back Ribs, Spare Ribs and the pork Country Rib (which doesn't actually come from the rib but rather a place near the shoulder of the pig, but tastes delicious anyway)

Stew beef- tougher cuts of beef, usually from the front end of the cow

Pork chops- small cuts of pork, usually from the center portion of the pig, near the ribs; can be cut thick or thin

Pork loin/tenderloin- The loin in the large muscle that runs basically from the shoulders back. It is the primal muscle for chops, but can stand on its own as a roast. The tenderloin is a small muscle attached to the loin that is prized for its tenderness.

If you aren't squeamish, take a look here at a beef butcher chart, or here at a pig butcher chart.

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Now that we know some basic ways to cook meat, and some basic cuts, let's figure out how to put them together. Probably the most important thing to remember here is that tender cuts require less time to cook than tough cuts and direct heat will almost always cook faster than indirect heat.

Want to test your knowledge? Take a few minutes and play a little game with yourself matching up the cuts of meat with cooking methods. Write it down if you want; I'll be solving that puzzle with my next entry.

Those things in mind, we are armed with the tools to start cooking in "Man vs. Meat Part Two"!

Is it my imagination

Or do the weeks keep getting longer? On the advice of a friend, I wanted to be a little more personal with my blog, so every once in a while, I'll just talk about me.

Today is Wednesday, but for all the world it feels like I'm on day 6 of the week. The heat here in the Midwest was relieved for a couple of days in the past month, but it's been over 100 degrees for the rest of the summer. On top of that, it's been a madhouse at work, getting ready for our up-coming show, working private and special events and doing our darnedest to keep up customer morale.

I suppose I should explain the last part of that statement. The restaurant I work at, as I've mentioned before, caters to our city and state employees. As I've said before, too, we see them every day--sometimes multiple times each day. I see it as part of our goal at the store to improve their moods. If one of them is having a crappy day when he or she walks in, I can almost always guarantee they will have a smile when they leave. Right now, it is super tough. The drought we are in has not only affected the obvious things like cattle and crops, but the employees that work for the Department of Agriculture. Not a day goes by that someone isn't beat to he** because he had the task of spending the day on the phone with a cattle farmer or a corn farmer, imploring that employee to perform some super secret DoA rain dance to produce the moisture needed for both to survive. I can only imagine how thoroughly depressing it must be to have to tell those people whose lives depend on the prosperity of their respective crops, that the end is not in sight, that they will have no choice but to take a loss this year and start from scratch next year.

In a way, though, I'm lucky. I have the opportunity to hear this information and plan in advance for my restaurant. What the drought means for me is beef prices will be down for a short time as ranchers slaughter their cows and sell while they can. What it also means is that come spring, beef will be off the menu. It means I can start planning now on how to bring in the extra business necessary to make up the coming shortfall caused by inflated prices that cannot be passed on directly to my customers.

For all I learned in school about cooking, there was never a class called, "How to Succeed on Almost Nothing", nor was there a course titled, "What to do when the Economy Tanks and People can't Afford to Eat at your Restaurant". So far, *knock wood*, we've been extremely lucky. Our low employee turnover rate means each of us develops a strong, personal relationship with the customers that keeps them coming back and trusting us, day after day, year after year.

I guess, in the end, this post wasn't really all about me, but there's a lot of me in it, so that counts. :)

Goals

I'm not sure why I'm awake yet....oh yeah, the cat decided she needed breakfast. If it weren't for her, I'd still be blissfully asleep, hopefully not dreaming about work (which happens all too often). I spend a lot of time at my job-- yesterday I worked for 12.5 hours. While that's a couple hours more than my average day, it's not uncommon at all, to find me at the store from open to close. My customers will toss, "Don't work too hard!" over their shoulders as they leave the building. "I won't," I reply with a smile.

What they don't realize is that this isn't just a job. I don't just go to work to get a paycheck. There's a deeper purpose there for me, a deeper goal. I grew up loving to cook, loving to feed people. There is a stronger satisfaction in that than in anything else I do. Most people just see us as a place to grab their lunch, with friendly employees. But honestly, I see many of my customers much, much more than I even see my family. I've seen the same faces day in and day out for almost three years. I've seen people get married, have babies, I've seen folks retire or get laid off. I've seen coffee groups grow and shrink, newbies joining the pack and others move away.

My goal there is to provide a place people can go to escape their humdrum existence behind a desk; a safe place to go where they can vent a little if they need to, smile, laugh, hang out for a few with their co-workers outside of work, anything to make their day a little better. My crew and I don't just serve food. We serve comfort and familiarity and even just a bit of affection in the mix. My goal at work is to make my customers' lives better, even if only for a few minutes while they are in the store. You don't have to be famous or wealthy to change the world...you just have to put your mind to it, roll up your sleeves, and dig into your little corner.

Why does my bread collapse in on itself?

Thanks, Kya, for my very first question!

"How come dad and our stepmum's bread keeps having the top collapse on it. Doesn't matter if they do it in the oven or the bread machine the top always does this funny thing and it makes for interesting bread but it's driving everyone nuts as to why.

They've made adjustments to water, yeast, oil, proofing times and temperatures so we're kind of at a loss."

There are a few reasons why the bread might be collapsing. Bread turning out well is dependent on a number of factors. They include, among other things, proofing/rising time, oven temperature, and baking time. I would say that one of these things might be the issue.

Starting from the proofing, it might be proofing or rising too long. Gluten, the building block of bread, only has a certain capacity for rising. If the bread is allowed to rise too much, it's like trying to put a third story on a house that is only designed for two. There is no support for the additional expansion of the bread. So, one thing you might try, is not letting to dough rise too much. Make sure you are following the directions on whether you are looking for double volume or triple volume. I know you said they had adjusted proofing time, so if they have really worked on that end, it might be one of the following factors.

Oven temperature might be another culprit. When I cook at home, I almost never pay attention to my oven being pre-heated before putting something in it, unless I'm baking. It is uber important to make sure your oven is at the right temperature before putting your bread in. If you aren't really paying attention to the pre-heat step, do. You might also want to check your oven temp with a properly calibrated thermometer to make sure it is actually at the temperature to which you are setting it. If you are baking at 350, but your oven is really only at 320, your bread will have problems. Also, opening your oven to check the bread can diminish your oven temp by as much as a third, causing your bread to be unfinished when your timer goes off, and this can cause your bread to collapse.

The third factor I've listed is baking time, and this can tie directly with the above factor of oven temp. However, it can also include other things like the weight of your loaf, why type of flour you have used, etc. Heavier breads, perhaps made with whole wheat flours, or which are by their nature more dense loaves (read, not fluffy white bread in this), will need a longer bake time at a lower temperature, to make sure that your bread is completely baked. Let's say you have a dense loaf of bread. You bake it at 350 for 35-40 minutes. It might look done on the outside, have a beautiful golden crust, but it may not be done in the very center. It maybe should have baked at 325 for 45-60 minutes, and that might make the difference in whether it stays up or falls. So, if you have been following a recipe, but the temp and time aren't working out, try setting the oven a little bit lower and cooking a little bit longer.

Let me know if any of those suggestions help. :)

Q and A?

I haven't written in the past few days. I've been thinking about what to write, what direction to go with my blog. There are a lot of things I love about food. One of my favorite things is spouting information about food, cooking techniques, all those sorts of things. (Ask anyone I work with--I'm sure they get annoyed with it at some point.)

So, I'd like to ask my readers, few though you are, if you'd like to ask questions, or have me put a regular blog entry, maybe once a week, answering questions or providing food facts? You could feel free to send me a message, email, etc, with your questions about food or cooking techniques. Looking for a special recipe or need help planning a menu? Write me and I'll give ya a hand. 

Swiss Cheese

When I lived in Lhasa, cooking was challenging. Quite often, I had to find alternative foods to replace things I was familiar with.

One of my all time favorite dishes is macaroni and cheese, and I could not envision a holiday without it. To this end, I went on a search for cheese. One of my dorm mates heard about a cheese factory in Lhasa, so several of us went on a mini field trip to find it. What an amazing discovery! Not only was it a cheese factory, but the proprietor had studied cheese making in Switzerland! He produced a lovely swiss cheese, not too strong, not too bland. It melted beautifully, and lasted quite a while without refrigeration. Needless to say, this became a staple for the many European students that were there, as well as us Americans. They also produced butter, yogurt and ice cream. The challenge we later found was that they were closed from October until March or April.... That meant stocking up and finding a freezer to store our cheese in, but it was worth it. I recall quite fondly that delicious cheese and how much it meant to find something so familiar, so very far from home. Little things make the difference.

Cookie Dough Love

Aside from the natural enjoyment of baked cookies, there is a great affinity, particularly among women, for cookie dough, in its sweet, unmodified, unbaked, original state. It doesn't matter what kind of dough, peanut butter, chocolate chip, or my most recent favorite, oatmeal raisin. The sweetness, the spices, they smell like Christmas all year long. The combination of textures is delightful. It is chewy, even in its raw form, interspersed with silky dough and soft raisins.

Yes, cookie dough.... Eat it by the spoonful, mix it into ice cream. I often wonder if it could be breaded in graham cracker crumbs and deep fried....Perhaps that's an avenue to explore. (I tried frying the dough alone in a pan....let's just say it didn't work so well, ha.)

By the way, I would like to say that I in no way advise anyone to eat raw cookie dough as it contains raw eggs. However, I sometimes indulge in that risk for my own, purely selfish pleasure. I think we all need to have those  once in a while. Don't you?

Chorizo, Near and Dear

I'm not Mexican, nor am I particularly good at Spanish, even though I spent 4 years studying the language in high school. What I absolutely adore, however, is Mexican food.

After graduate school, I went to live in Tibet. Prior to that time, I had Mexican food perhaps twice a year. Practically the minute I got there, I started craving Mexican food, perhaps because there was nothing further from the food I had every day to eat. I missed it so much I constantly dreamed about tacos and salsa and refried beans.

I remember, at the end of April in 2007, my friends and I planned a spectacular Mexican feast. We had burritos, guacamole, salsa, patatas bravas, sopapillas and tres leches cake. It was amazing that we were able to find the ingredients to make everything, and even more amazing to our Tibetan friends who had never tasted Mexican food before. Surprisingly, the were wary of the dinner foods, but adored the desserts and could not seem to eat enough of them.

Nowadays, living in Kansas, with a large Mexican population, I eat Mexican food on a regular basis. Tamales are heaven, as are chile rellenos, fresh pico. I love everything about it, the freshness of the food, the savoriness of the meats. The flavors of lime and onion and jalapenos dance across your tongue, perking up the taste buds, making them awake to everything that follows.

Tonight, I brought home dinner from probably my favorite Mexican restaurant. It is a small, family owned establishment, around for nearly 20 years, with simple, delicious food. Soft tacos, stuffed with shredded beef and chorizo. Chorizo is the food of the gods; spicy and spice, flavorful, potentially greasy, always close to my heart. Eating chorizo makes me happy on many, many levels. I wouldn't hesitate at all to say that chorizo holds a special place in my kitchen. A world without it would be a poorer world, indeed.

Potato Salad Goodness

Potato salad is a summertime staple. Made with white potatoes, red potatoes, gold potatoes, mayo, mustard, vinegar, egg, no egg, the varieties are near to endless, and each type is delicious in its own right. Potato salad brings to mind picnics, family gatherings, parties. All of my memories associated with the dish are happy ones.

A couple of months ago, I came across what has become my favorite recipe -- Roasted Potato Salad with Balsamic-Bacon Vinaigrette.

Photographer: pelicangal, allrecipes.com

It calls for red potatoes, and a good bit of bacon grease. I've found it works really very well with regular russets, peeled and roasted until they are crispy on the outside, and no bacon grease. The bacon grease makes it difficult to reheat and can make for an unpleasant texture in the mouth if not served quite warm. Instead, I use a combination of olive and salad oil, with regular, not white balsamic vinegar. It lends a lovely warm color to the salad. I do think, however, that there can never been too much hard boiled egg or bacon pieces in this salad. While it is served warm, leaving out the bacon grease means you can serve this recipe room temperature and it will reheat well in a flash if you have leftovers.

It will delight your senses, with a complete change of pace from the usual mayo and relish potato salad, not to mention fewer calories.

Cupcakes Part One

Every so often, I get in the mood for a cupcake. Cupcakes are a wonderful thing. For a brief history of the cupcake, go ahead and visit this site, "The Rise of the Cupcakes".

Now, I haven't gotten into the cupcake frenzy that so many have been experiencing. I don't actually bake cakes or cupcakes much but I had such a wonderful cupcake the other night that I decided to look up a few recipes and possibly try some out.

This is one of my favorite cupcakes. It is pure strawberry, incredibly delicious. Try it-- I know you will love it as much as I do.

 

 

 

(Photo: Annie's Eats-- click for source)

Working a Double

Tonight, my blog is more about the work in food service rather than the food.

I started my work day at 6:00 AM. It was doughnut day at work, so a little extra work needed to be done before breakfast could be up and running. However, I've done it quite a while now and it is routine. Decent work through lunch prep, into lunch, and then, the big push for dinner.

This evening was a private party, a sold out restaurant, food and drinks for all. There is nothing more satisfying than knowing someone has chosen your place to celebrate. Of all the restaurants, all the bars, all the event venues, yours is at the top of their list. And why not? Our restaurant is a great little place. During the day, we are a haven for State and City employees and any number of Downtown workers. At night, we transform into a dinner theater, stage, lights, sound, the whole thing. We've done musicals, plays, magic shows, you name it. It is a place for family, fun, perhaps a drink or two, a few laughs. We strive to make it a wonderful place the people remember and want to come back to.

So, tonight, the party broke up, and after cleaning and dishes, it was after 10 PM. A long day, yes, but worth it, to know that we worked hard and it paid off. The customers were happy when they walked out the door.

Vitamix Rocks!

Blenders are awesome. Anyone who has one knows this. In the matter of a few seconds, whatever you have put inside, is pulverized, reduced to a puree, crushed. What could be better in the summertime than a delicious blended drink? Lemonade or strawberries added to ice are instantly transformed into a frothy, decadent beverage that will cut through the heat like nothing else. And, what's a great blender? A Vitamix.



I use a Vitamix every day at work. It is a miraculous piece of machinery. I love it. Every time I turn it on, I feel the start up rumble, and hear the roar of its power. It takes ordinary things and makes them special, and not just drinks. It is great for sauces and soups as well.

Don't have one? It's never too late to add to your kitchen tools.

Starter and Kraut Update

Sooo.....my starter did not turn out particularly well. I attempted it with rye flour and lets just say it didn't go. However, I am proposing an experiment for myself. I am going to set up a variety of starters on the weekend. I will work with three flours, white, wheat and rye. I will also work with tap water, distilled water and water that I boil in my own kitchen.

As for the sauerkraut, again, something I will need to work on. Unlike my initial attempt a year ago, the salted cabbage did not create its own brine. I hope I caught it soon enough, but I'm not sure. I added enough brine to cover the cabbage in the bucket. Another couple of days will tell.

Oh, and a super exciting recipe I found yesterday is a 19th century recipe for yeast water! That's right, naturally produced yeast water. I know, I know, that's basically what a starter is for, but I plan on giving it a try and seeing if the bread made from the yeast water will be different than from either a starter or a regular packaged yeast.

Hmmm....seems like a bit of bread making is in my future....and that means yours as well. Are you excited?

Gettin' in the Groove

When I cook, there is one thing that happens no where else in my life-- I get in a groove. I know what I need to do, how to do it, and I know how much time I have to get it done, and nothing can stand in my way. I see, in my head, when things have to happen to be ready on time, and what tasks I can delegate, and then I get down to work.

Sometimes, I listen to music, put my Pandora radio on shuffle, and dig into my work. Sometimes, I prefer the silence in the kitchen, so my mind can do the shuffling. As I make headway into my tasks, the hours fly by, and before I know it, we are ready for dinner service, and my kitchen is tidied, the plates are warm and customers are being seated for their dinner theater experience.

Of course, when I have a lot going on emotionally, I bake. Cookies, cake, breads, new recipes, old favorites, anything to work out the stress. My friends benefit from the results, as do I, but in different ways. They get to eat lots of delicious things, and I have some significant relaxation.

Old School Cooking

Since I was young, I've always been fascinated by old school styles of cooking. By that I mean open fire cooking, or wood burning stoves, you know, old school. There's something inherently attractive to me about being able to cook without modern conveniences, without a huge variety of pots and pans, handy-dandy kitchen gadgets, every ingredient known to man. There's something special in creating things from scratch, putting in the elbow grease, the brain work, and the time.

There's nothing like a loaf of fresh bread, a high quality product, made for less than the cost of a moderately priced grocery store loaf. Smear it with a bit of freshly made butter, or some fresh cheese. Toasted, it is perfection. Add a touch of homemade jam and there is little that is more satisfying to either the mouth or the soul. Knowing that it was made with love and your own hard work makes it taste that much better.

Several years ago, I lived in Tibet, the Roof of the World. Little did I realize how much living there would shape my future. I was there as a student, studying at Tibet University in Lhasa. How did that shape my future with food, you ask? Well, this was my kitchen:  

I had a single gas burner, no hot water in the kitchen except what I boiled myself, no refrigerator, no microwave and no oven. The first year I was there, we managed a full out Thanksgiving feast in the dorm thanks to a massive wok borrowed from the restaurant downstairs. Yes, I deep fried a turkey in a wok at 12,000 ft, but that's another story. My point is, I was able to create wonderful food with almost nothing to work with. There was no garlic press, no blender, no four-burner range. It was just me and my creativity. And I loved it. Food was special because it was hand made, and reminded us all of home. It was in this little kitchen that I rediscovered a love for cooking that I had pushed to the back of my mind and heart, and decided to go for a culinary degree instead of a Ph.d.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

In American food culture, there are few things as treasured as the chocolate chip cookie. From the time we are children, we are conditioned to respond to the smell of them in the oven, to the sight of them on a plate on the dining room table. They represent mom, grandma, home, family, holidays, late night parties with the girls, trips home from college; basically everything that is good and right in the world.

What is it we find so special about the combination of sugar cookie and chocolate? Most people don't even use a premium chocolate, just good ol' semi-sweet chocolate chips- name brand, generic, doesn't matter. There is a flavor profile to a chocolate chip cookie that is integral to American taste.

The perfect cookie--is it chewy? Is it crunchy? I think it's a combination of both. There should be a crunchy ridge of cookie around the edge, followed by the soft and chewy goodness in the center. Not too cakey. There should be an even and generous distribution of chocolate chips.

As for a recipe...I have one for the perfect chocolate chip cookie....but, sssshhhhhh... it's a secret.

Making Things Happen

I work for a small, locally owned, family run business. I've been there for almost three years, and I've gotten to be an adopted member of the family. There's a lot to be said for this type of business. When the economy tanks, local restaurants and shops are not the ones laying people off. Their small structures often stay in tact, providing a solid base from which the economy can rebound.

There's more, too. Because of the size of the business, we all know each other very well. From the owners on down the line through the crew, to the occasional additional staff we bring in for special occasions, we might as well all be family. We celebrate birthdays, special anniversaries, we all get joy from each others successes.

What makes it even more special is the way small business can get things done and make a significant impact on the surrounding community. Right now, we are in the midst of a struggle for the future of our community. Different groups are pulling in different directions. It is one of the challenges of being in this particular city. The people here find it hard to get together behind a cause and just make it happen. Everyone wants his or her own voice heard, but are uncertain on compromising.

I am lucky enough to be certain of where I stand and of what I can do to help.

For Love of Sourdough

There are few things that evoke more comforting memories than homemade bread. The warmth of the house, the smell of the golden crust, rubbed with butter as it cools on the counter, and finally, that first beautiful bite, almost too hot to eat, drenched in more sweet butter, soft and tender. That yeasty goodness is incomparable. Toasted, it's heaven in your hand.

Possibly the easiest yeast bread recipe is Amish white bread. I've made this recipe many, many times. I actually started making this recipe when I lived in Tibet. I was looking for a simple recipe with limited ingredients. Wonder of wonder, it worked, even at 12,000 feet. If it will work on the roof of the world, it will probably work anywhere, for anyone.

What does this have to do with sourdough? Starters. A starter is a combination of flour and water, basically allowed to ferment until it is a living thing. The gases and the alcohols and the bacteria all add to the flavor of the finished product. Making one is a time consuming process. It must be fed and cared for before it is mature enough to use. It's all worth it though. It just so happens I have a brand new starter sitting on my kitchen counter. Let's see how it turns out, shall we?

Sauerkraut Part Two

Ok, so, yesterday, I posted that I was going to make sauerkraut. Well, I couldn't wait! Darn, I should have taken pictures! I'll get the hang of this yet, folks.

It really is a simple process. First, I sliced cabbage into thin strips, separated them into a large bowl, and tossed it all with some kosher salt. Then, in a smallish (think 2 gallon) bucket that I scalded with boiling water, I packed down all the cabbage. Since I don't have a big rock to put on top, I used  a pan that fit perfectly into the bucket, and inside of the pan, I put a jug of water, to put pressure on the cabbage and force out the juice. Now, the way it works is, the juice will become brine, as it mixes with the salt I put on the cabbage. Combine that with the natural bacteria in the air, and it will start to ferment.

In a couple of days, I will check in on it and see if there is enough brine to cover the cabbage. If not, I will have to make some and add it to the bucket.

Until then, signing off on the Sauerkraut Project.